Last night we said goodbye to Faye as she was whisked away by Ekspressbuss from the rainy, windy quay at Stokkvagen, to Mo i Rana, thence by overnight train to Trondheim, and eventually to London. Today, she texted Clive, her Dad, to say she was sunbathing in England, not long after we were putting on extra sweaters as we crossed the arctic circle. She said she was going home for a job interview, but I think it might have been the 28°C that appealed too!
Stokkvagen was facing right into the wind and wave, so we went off a few miles north to find a wild anchorage in the "Trollgarden" as the locals call the group of islets and channels off the shore in this area. The Trolls came out to get us, and our first anchoring choice was spoiled by a large fish-farm right where we would have liked to be. Several attempts at getting a "hold" in less desirable spots in the bay failed, as the 30-knot gusts sweeping down from the mountains blew us backwards with enough force to drag the anchor easily. Eventually, Robin navigated us through smaller and smaller gaps to a large bay which was about 6 metres deep all over. This was perfect, and despite the intermittent surging and worrying at the anchor, Voltair stayed exactly in the same place.
So here we are this morning in the cockpit, SW force 6 outside, Talisker in hand, celebrating crossing the line.
On the opposite side of the road, several hundred other souls in the fine ship Albatros were passing out of the circle, perhaps also having a drink to that! So we had a second celebration with prawns, mayo and onion smorebrod.
This afternoon we have been in Holandfjord to have a look at Svartisen and the tongue of the glacier that approaches the sea just here. However, although the idea of a quick trot over to walk on the ice was quite appealing, we were not so keen on a 5 mile walk in the rain and wind, and weren't too happy about leaving the boat on a lee shore either, so we had a slice of hot buttered toast and jam, took some photos and headed for shelter.
Until next time
Clive, JK, Robin and Vaughan
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